Mexican Mole: Ancient Roots and Modern Twists

Mole is one of the most revered dishes in Mexican cuisine, known for its complex flavors, rich history, and its ability to evolve over time. From its ancient roots in pre-Columbian Mexico to its modern-day interpretations, mole stands as a testament to Mexico's culinary ingenuity and cultural heritage. While mole is often thought of as a sauce, it is much more than that. It’s a story of cultural fusion, resourcefulness, and tradition passed down through generations.

This fusion of old and new world ingredients led to the creation of the mole we know today. One of the most famous legends surrounding mole’s evolution comes from the Convent of Santa Rosa in Puebla, where nuns supposedly invented mole poblano for a special banquet in honor of the archbishop. The nuns combined chiles, chocolate, and spices to create a thick, luxurious sauce that was served over turkey. While this story has mythical overtones, it speaks to the long-standing cultural significance of mole in Mexican cuisine.

The Regional Varieties of Mole

Mexico is a country of vast culinary diversity, and mole is no exception. Over time, different regions of Mexico have developed their own versions of mole, each with distinct ingredients, flavors, and preparation techniques.

Mole Poblano

Perhaps the most well-known mole, mole poblano comes from Puebla. It is a dark, rich sauce made from a mixture of dried chiles, nuts, spices, plantains, and chocolate. Mole poblano is traditionally served over turkey or chicken and is often prepared for special occasions such as Dia de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) and weddings.

Mole Negro

From Oaxaca, often called the "land of seven moles," mole negro (black mole) is one of the most complex and labor-intensive versions of the sauce. It is made with a mix of smoky dried chiles, tomatoes, sesame seeds, and Mexican chocolate, giving it a deep, dark color. Mole negro’s signature flavor comes from the charred ingredients that lend a subtle bitterness and smokiness to the sauce.

Mole Amarillo

In contrast to the dark and rich moles, mole amarillo (yellow mole) is bright and tangy, made from yellow chiles, corn masa, and tomatillos. This mole is often served with pork or chicken, providing a lighter alternative to its richer counterparts.

Mole Verde

Mole verde (green mole) is a fresher, herbaceous version of mole, typically made from tomatillos, cilantro, and pumpkin seeds. It has a bright, tangy flavor and is frequently paired with pork or chicken. Mole verde is common in central and southern Mexico.

Mole in Modern Mexican Cuisine

While mole remains a treasured traditional dish, it has also made its way into modern interpretations of Mexican cuisine. Chefs around the world, both in Mexico and internationally, have embraced mole for its versatility and complexity. Today, mole is no longer limited to just poultry; it can be paired with various meats, seafood, vegetables, and even used in creative dishes like mole tacos or mole-infused burgers.

In contemporary Mexican restaurants, mole is often given a gourmet twist. For example, some chefs experiment with unconventional ingredients like truffle oil or serve mole in deconstructed forms, where each element is highlighted separately. Others focus on regional mole tasting menus, allowing diners to experience the unique moles of Oaxaca, Puebla, and beyond.

Modern Mexican chefs also pay homage to the sauce's indigenous roots by using sustainable, local ingredients and bringing mole back to its pre-Hispanic essence. This balance between innovation and tradition keeps mole alive in the ever-evolving world of Mexican cuisine.

Authentic Mole Poblano Recipe

To truly appreciate the depth and flavor of mole, nothing beats making it from scratch. Below is a traditional recipe for Mole Poblano, perfect for serving over chicken or turkey.

Ingredients:

• 4 dried ancho chiles
• 4 dried pasilla chiles
• 2 dried mulato chiles
• 2 dried chipotle chiles
• 2 tablespoons lard or vegetable oil
• 1 onion, chopped
• 4 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 tomatoes, chopped
• 1/4 cup raisins
• 1/4 cup almonds, toasted
• 1/4 cup sesame seeds, toasted
• 2 tablespoons pumpkin seeds
• 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
• 1/4 teaspoon ground anise
• 1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
• 1/2 teaspoon cumin
• 50g Mexican chocolate, chopped
• 4 cups chicken broth
• Salt, to taste
• 4 chicken breasts, cooked

Instructions:

1. Prepare the Chiles: Remove the stems and seeds from the dried chiles. Heat a large skillet over medium heat and toast the chiles for about 1-2 minutes, until fragrant. Place the toasted chiles in a bowl and cover with hot water. Let them soak for 20 minutes, then drain and set aside.
2. Cook the Base: In the same skillet, heat the lard or oil over medium heat. Add the chopped onions and garlic, cooking until softened (about 5 minutes). Add the tomatoes and cook for another 5 minutes.
3. Blend the Sauce: In a blender, combine the soaked chiles, onion-garlic mixture, raisins, almonds, sesame seeds, pumpkin seeds, and all the spices. Add a cup of chicken broth and blend until smooth.
4. Simmer the Mole: Pour the blended sauce back into the skillet and bring to a simmer over low heat. Stir in the chopped chocolate and remaining chicken broth. Simmer the sauce for 45 minutes, stirring occasionally, until thickened and rich.
5. Serve: Season the sauce with salt to taste. Pour the mole over cooked chicken breasts and serve with rice and warm tortillas.

Conclusion

Mole is more than just a sauce; it’s a cultural treasure that tells the story of Mexico’s rich culinary history. From its ancient origins in Mesoamerica to its modern interpretations, mole continues to captivate chefs and home cooks alike with its intricate flavors and endless versatility. Whether you enjoy a traditional Mole Poblano or experiment with a contemporary twist, one thing is certain: mole will remain a beloved staple of Mexican cuisine for generations to come.